Guide Dog Class Lecture: Special Travel Conditions
Since you’ve learned most of the basics of working with your guide dog, this lecture addresses how to navigate special travel conditions with a guide dog such as travel at night, in the cold or heat, or on hiking trails
Dawn or Dusk and Night Travel
Whether out walking at pre-dawn, dusk or late hours, there are considerations to traveling in low light conditions, even in a familiar area. If you are accustomed to using any remaining travel vision during daylight hours, you may need to be more attentive as a handler to better feel and follow your dog’s moves. It’s normal for most of us to generally be more attentive to our environment when out at night. As a guide dog handler, if you change your demeanor or handling style, your dog may notice and possibly adjust by either slowing or increasing pace.
The route you travel during the day may appear and behave differently at night. For instance, car head lights and streetlamps may produce reflections and deep shadows that are not present during the day. Sidewalks might have different obstacles that are absent during the day, such as trash cans or flattened cardboard for recycling. Conversely, sidewalk objects that you are accustomed to navigating such as café tables and sandwich boards are often brought inside overnight.
Some businesses (restaurants, clubs, taverns, etc.) may only be open in the evening and others are closed for the day. As a result, your dog may then guide or behave differently. For instance, your dog’s line might change based on the novel obstacles or they might pause as they notice their reflection in a glass window. Following and supporting your dog as they navigate these changes are the best strategy for night travel. Other considerations during evening or night walks: Vehicle and pedestrian volume and habits may change from day to night. Vehicular traffic might be lighter than normal, making traffic reading less obvious and the handler more reliant on the “all clear” before initiating a crossing. The novel conditions may invigorate some dogs causing them to pick up their pace.
In low light conditions, it’s important to be as visible as possible to drivers and other pedestrians. Your dog’s harness has reflective strips, consider wearing outerwear that is light colored. For maximum visibility consider clothing with reflective panels or other similarly conspicuous attire. In class you will receive two forms of visible safety devices. One is an audible beacon in the form of a small flashing light that affixes to your dog’s harness or your cane and the other is a highly reflective jacket. Both are recommended for low light condition travel. Wearing reflective bands around the wrists and ankles is an effective method to increase your visibility. The motion of your arms and legs will be accentuated, alerting others of your presence.
Snow, Ice and Cold
Winter weather such as snow or ice can present a changed landscape for you and your dog. Familiar sounds and tactile landmarks become diminished or changed significantly. Your winter jacket, hood, or beanie to guard against the cold may influence your following position or hearing.
After a heavy snowfall, it is difficult for pedestrians to ascertain where the sidewalk is, not to mention the curb, street or grass parkway. Sounds can be muffled and distorted, absorbed and deflected by snow cover, snowbanks and slush in the streets.
Ice is slippery for both you and your dog. Dog boots can help your dog with this slick surface as well as protect against salt and chemicals (used to melt the ice) and gravel that is spread on the roadways (for traction).
Snow removal from the street can vary, depending on where you live. When roads are cleared of snow, it may mean that mounds of snow are deposited along curbs or on sidewalks. Sidewalk clearing may also be inconsistent, depending on the home or business owner.
Familiarity with the Route
- Unlike a cane, your guide dog has a brain, and a memory! If your dog knows the route well beforehand, this will help as the landscape changes. Prioritize those one or two routes you need most, and make sure your dog knows them well prior to snowfall. As with any extreme weather conditions, consider alternative means to get to where you are going. (e.g. door-to-door service).
Your Dog’s Behavior and Guide Work Pace
- Most dogs love snow! Introduce your dog to the first snow on a long leash without the harness.
- Your dog may be reluctant to relieve on snow at first and could prefer an area that has been cleared or trampled down to a hard pack.
- You may have to make some adjustments to your dog’s pace for the new conditions. Some dogs are excited and energized and will need to be steadied down. Others will walk more slowly and cautiously and may need extra encouragement. Icy areas will, of course, require more caution – your dog will learn that ice is slippery and requires a slower pace.
Adjustments to Guide Work Mechanics
Obstructed Sidewalks
- While attempting to work a route along the sidewalk, you may find that your path is blocked by snowbanks, or the snow is just too deep to walk through comfortably. Depending upon the safety of the road, it may be necessary to direct your dog toward the street, using the sidewalkless technique for a route that is normally worked on the sidewalk. In this case, the snowbank along the side of the street would be the curb edge that you and your dog follow.
- In deciding whether to use the sidewalkless technique, the most important consideration is the safety of the road. Remember that lanes may be narrowed by presence of snow and ice, reducing room on the shoulder for you to walk and possibly forcing you into the actual driving lanes. Traction is reduced for the cars as well as yourself.
Obstructed Curbs
- Street corners and curbs can easily be blurred by piled snow. Observe environmental cues such as the proximity of an idling car or the sound of melting snow trickling into a sewer drain for example, for an idea of your location in relation to the curb. Knowing that you are close to the curb may be enough, as your dog will often seek an opening in a snowbank and guide you through it toward the crosswalk. Seeing that your dog is doing its best to adapt will inspire you to make sure your dog knows you are pleased, and consequently will help to build your dog’s confidence in conditions that are more challenging than normal.
- A lightweight, compact cane can come in handy for negotiating snowbanks at street corners. For example, when your dog stops where the down curb normally is located and you probe with your left foot only to find a high snowbank, a cane can provide useful information on the height and length of the mound, and how far past the curb and into the street it extends. This will assist you in directing your dog around the bank or enable you to heel your dog as you step over or through it. A cane can be equally helpful upon reaching the up curb after your street crossing, as well as in other areas that may be blocked by snowbanks.
- In some cases, street crossings may be unclear due to snow obscuring the curb area, your dog’s usual target point. Patterning your dog to the first few crossings on a route (with your cane or a human guide) will help teach your dog to target the appropriate area at both up and down curbs.
- Allow extra time for your routes when there is an accumulation of snow or ice on the ground. This gives you time to problem solve and provide extra support your dog may need, helping to ensure that winter guide work is as trouble-free as possible.
Other Winter Obstacles
- Prepare for winter by consistently addressing and reworking overhead clearance errors – even when the weather is nice and the leaves on a tree branch just lightly brush the top of your head! Remember that tree branches will hang much lower under the weight of snow or rain.
- Be cautious about standing at the side of a building as snow or ice can melt and slide off from the eaves.
- Snow boulders and mounds are clearances; rework them if your dog makes an error and you stumble into one.
Equipment for Snow, Ice and Cold
Paw protection:
- Boots: As mentioned earlier, salt and chemicals used to melt ice can be very irritating to your dog’s feet. These products prevent water from freezing, which means that a guide dog can step into puddles that are 2 or 3 degrees – or even colder! A good option for pad protection is using booties as a physical barrier to the cold and irritants. In class you will receive a set of four high quality boots that are fitted to your dog, these boots are ideal to use in snow, ice or cold conditions.
- Musher’s Secret: An alternative to dog boots is a paw toughening ointment such as Musher's Secret™. Though less effective than the physical barrier provided by boots, it is still useful in helping dogs endure cold weather travel.
- Keep the fur between your dog’s toes trimmed, which will prevent ice balls from forming on the bottoms of your dog’s feet and between the toes.
- Note: If working your dog without paw protection, your dog may be more prone to limping, hopping or other signs of discomfort due to salt, snow buildup or other debris in between the pads of your dog’s feet. Be prepared to pause your route to tend to your dog’s paws by warming them in your hands and massaging them to remove any of the debris.
- Post route: After any work in snow or ice, clean your dog’s feet in lukewarm water to dissolve foreign particles that might be clinging to the pads or between the toes. Cleaning and drying will remove salt and other chemicals which can be harmful if ingested and helps prevent the dog from excessively licking its feet.
- Non-Toxic Ice-Melting Pellets: For use around your own home, consider ice-melting pellets from the pet store that are non-irritating and non-toxic.
Your Own Feet
When working a guide dog, you may come upon patches of ice with little warning. Good traction is essential during the winter months. Products such as Yaktrax™ that cover the bottom of your shoes can help provide the best possible footing.
Protecting Your Dog’s Coat
Winter air, indoors and out, makes everyone’s skin dry out. Brushing your dog more often will help stimulate the natural oils in the coat and prevent itchiness.
Other Equipment Concerns
- The breeds of dog that we use in our program are chosen partly for their double coat, allowing adaptability to all weather conditions. However, there are occasions where the extreme cold makes it difficult for even the hardiest dog to feel comfortable. An example would be a day of temperatures in the negative 20–30-degree Fahrenheit range (comparable to negative 30 – 40 Celsius). In cases like this, you may decide to purchase a fleece coat for your dog that will fit underneath the harness. Not all dogs will need this – you will get an idea for your dog’s tolerance of cold weather as the winter progresses, which may change as your dog gets older.
- Make sure your dog’s bed is situated away from drafts, and that it provides an adequate barrier from a cold floor.
- Wipe down leather equipment with a warm, damp cloth after use in winter conditions, to prevent salt build-up.
Heat
Working a guide dog in hot weather requires mindful and serious consideration. This is especially true in areas such as the Southwest region of the United States where the heat can reach triple digits in May and not subside until mid-October. If it is possible to adjust your schedule to avoid having to be out in the hottest parts of the day, that would be best for both you and your dog. Walking outside is safer in the early mornings and after sunset to avoid the direct sun from above midday When air temperature is 110 degrees Fahrenheit (45 degrees Celsius), the surface temperature may be over 150 degrees Fahrenheit (70 degrees Celsius)! These temperatures make metal surfaces especially dangerous for a dog’s pads.
Guidelines for Hot Weather Travel
- Walk on the shady side of the street if possible. The dark asphalt streets absorb the sun’s heat and are much hotter than the lighter colored sidewalk. Pay attention to your dog “dancing” in place or trying to sit unexpectedly, when stationary at up or down curbs. Standing on such hot surfaces could burn and blister your dog’s feet. If you cannot tolerate the heat while holding the palm of your hand on the ground, it is not safe for your dog’s paws.
- When possible, avoid walking during the hottest part of the day. Some alumni leave their dogs home on extremely hot days or when they know traveling will be unsuitable for a dog. This is fine as long as the dog is left in a climate-controlled location, has water and can be monitored periodically.
- If your schedule requires you to be at work or school despite the heat, try to arrange for alternative transportation. Never leave your dog unattended in a car; even on moderately warm days, temperatures can be deadly!
- If you take public transportation such as a bus or paratransit, become familiar with the schedules so you can minimize the time waiting at a bus stop. Some bus stops are just a pole with no bench or shelter from the sun. Bring a portable mat for your dog to sit on while waiting.
- If you must walk routes of significant distance in a hot environment, carry water for your dog and yourself. Collapsible water dishes are great! Many alumni choose to pack spray bottles for a periodic squirt down or mist.
- For traveling in hot weather plan routes so you can stop along the way to give yourself and your guide a break. Restaurants and coffee shops are good as staff are usually willing to offer ice cubes or water if you need it. These are opportunities to get out of the sun and into air conditioning, or shade before continuing.
- If the weather prevents you from working your dog outside and getting the exercise to which you have both become accustomed, don’t lose heart. An indoor shopping mall is an excellent alternative to an outdoor route, providing plenty of space and challenges to be productive. Go in the morning before the stores open, so you can keep a consistent pace longer and over a greater distance.
- Some dogs will slow down or stop in shady areas during a very warm route or may try to drift or leave the line of travel in an attempt to find protection from the sun. This is normal. Be patient and have realistic expectations considering the situation. Monitor your dog for signs of over-heating such as excessive panting. If your dog’s guide work suddenly deteriorates or there are signs of heat distress, get to a safe rest area as soon as possible and cool your dog down. If the dog is over heated, a cool hose-down or sponging with water at the throat and armpits will cool major arteries. If the dog is panting a lot and seems overheated, do not allow them to drink great amounts of water quickly. Small amounts at a time will reduce the likelihood of vomiting. Naturally, if ever you feel that your dog is in enough heat distress to warrant veterinary attention, get to the vet ASAP! An overweight dog will likely be less heat tolerant than a dog at a healthy weight, another good reason to keep your dog lean.
Paw Protection
Here is another situation where dog boots specifically made for warm weather can be used successfully. When putting boots on your dog, be sure to cinch them up so they don’t come off. If your dog is not used to foot protection, start exposing your dog to boots before summer heat arrives. Do this by heeling in safe and familiar areas before asking your dog to guide you.
Crowds
Pedestrians are the most unpredictable obstacles a guide dog must navigate.
Asking your dog to work in large crowds can be challenging. At times you may feel like a salmon traveling upstream. Your dog will need to slow, sometimes stop, adjust the travel line, ignore blatant solicitations, and stay focused in the constantly changing environment. Other times you will feel like you are caught in a current rushing downstream. It is inevitable, whether you are sighted or not, to have glancing contact with people in a large crowd. You will not rework everything – it is sometimes appropriate to simply pause briefly and then continue with forward movement. When using public transit, such as a train or bus, expedite boarding and exiting. Minimize the amount of time you spend in doorways as many doors shut automatically and could begin closing more quickly than you expect. Save the major praise and reward for when you and your dog are safely settled at your seat. In crowds, some people may not notice your dog at your side and may accidentally bump or step on your guide dog. Check in with your dog more frequently at halts to gauge your dog’s demeanor, offer a relaxing touch, to help your dog remain comfortable. Speak calmly and clearly so your dog can understand you in loud or hectic situations.
Frequently a handler will choose to adjust guidework strategies when working in very crowded environments. In urban areas, you may find yourself in a group three or four deep, and well back from the down curb, while waiting for the chance to cross a street. When the light changes in your favor and everyone begins to move forward, you might scarcely pause at the curb to maximize the amount of time you have to make the crossing. A prolonged pause at that down curb could decrease the crossing time allowed by the light cycle. When completing such a crossing, a team could consider a brief pause at the up curb if there are pedestrians behind you.
You can decide in advance about whether you want to bring your dog on an outing. If you bring your dog and the venue and it is not conducive for guide work, it is okay to heel your guide using a cane or human guide as a sensible strategy.
Hiking Trails
Some alumni enjoy getting outdoors and into the backcountry with their guide dogs. Though guide dogs have been trained for clearances, drop-offs, and overheads - hiking on rugged terrain has not been part of their formal training. Fortunately, if you are up to the challenge, most guide dogs will happily follow trails. Be aware that narrow paths may cause your dog to slow or stop at first if they are concerned about making clearances for you.
Consider this before hitting the trails:
- As a standard safety precaution, hike with a friend.
- Gradually build your and your dog’s stamina before the hike. You’ll be picking your toes up more than usual – beware of shin splints, resulting in temporary over-use pain on the front of one’s lower legs.
- Outfit yourself and your dog with proper footwear.
- Carry water; drinking from streams can get you and your dog sick.
- Don’t let your dog relieve where it could contaminate streams.
- Protect against ticks and mosquitoes.
- Educate yourself about potential hazards on the trail (e.g. foxtails, poison oak, snakes, etc.)
- You’ll need to give your dog some latitude in guidework responses. Rocks, roots, and ruts are so common that your dog will probably need to desensitize within this environment – pick your feet up! Ask a companion to warn you about overheads.
- A head collar can help to manage the dog that wants to overindulge in sniffing.
- There may be sections of the hike where using human guide is the best option.
- Gauge whether your dog enjoys this work. Is it fun or stressful? Would everyone be happier if your dog stayed home?
The solitude of a long hike is in stark contrast to working through crowds. With time, masses of people can become white noise your dog. On the other hand, while hiking you may go hours without seeing anyone else. A dog that is normally very comfortable when encountering strangers may alarm bark or growl when spotting a hiker or animal coming around a bend. A matter-of-fact cue to sit is a familiar task to give your dog. Follow the verbal cue with food reward while you call out a greeting and engage the oncoming hikers.
Practical, Flexible, and Reasonable
We have mentioned some situations where a guide dog handler will combine planning, flexibility and a realistic point of view to make the most out of traveling with their canine partner. Anticipate that you will encounter your own “special travel conditions” that we have not discussed here, but your approach to dealing with them is the same. As always, our Support Center is ready to offer assistance and advice when you needed. In fact, if you develop a unique or innovative way to manage a travel difficulty, consider sharing your discovery with GDB so we can pass these ideas to our clients and alumni.
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